Amouage develops new raw material for Rose d’Oman
Rose d’Oman: Amouage pose les bases d’une nouvelle matière première
The rose Damascena Trigintipetala grows on the terraced mountains of Jabal Akhdar, at elevations above 2,000 meters. Amouage, the fragrance house, has identified this specific variety—characterized by its 30 petals—as a foundation for a new raw material. The rocky soils and cooler temperatures compared to the surrounding plains give the flower a distinct profile, described as more vivid, green, and mineral than the same varieties grown in Turkey or Bulgaria.
Rose water has traditionally been the primary product of these flowers. Farmers harvest the blooms by hand between mid-March and late April on the terraces of Jabal Akhdar. They distill the petals over wood fires using clay stills, an ancient process that imbues the water with woody and smoky nuances. The essential oil is a byproduct of this distillation. The water itself is a cultural symbol in Oman, though Renaud Salmon notes it has become almost tourist-oriented in recent years.
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The essential oil extracted from this region is incredibly pure because it results from a single distillation. The practice of co-hobation is avoided here to preserve quality. However, the total production volume is extremely limited, rarely exceeding 50 milliliters. This scarcity makes it a premium ingredient, but it also presents a significant challenge for scale. Amouage is attempting to address this by leveraging the expertise of LMR Naturals by IFF to build a viable economic model around the resource.
LMR Naturals by IFF, under the leadership of Bertrand de Préville, plans to extract aromatic molecules directly from the rose water. This process will recombine these molecules with the essential oil to create a complete oil, rather than relying on the standard byproduct. The team will also utilize the natural alcohols present in the water to add a petal-like facet to the final fragrance. This approach requires identifying the most interesting aspects of the raw material and isolating them for perfumers.
The extraction facilities will be built directly in Oman to protect the flowers from heat and sunlight during processing. Equipment is scheduled to become operational ahead of the March 2027 harvest. This collaboration highlights a specific strategy in the fragrance industry: identifying unique facets of natural ingredients to offer perfumers differentiated options. The project aims to create a new olfactory signature for Amouage that is deeply rooted in its territory.
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Renaud Salmon sees a clear parallel between this rose project and the encens of Wadi Dawkah. Both ingredients share a modern, mineral breath and zesty notes. The goal is not to use the rose oil sparingly as a novelty. Instead, the intention is to incorporate it in sufficient quantities to allow its unique character to fully express itself in a perfume formula.
This initiative extends beyond product development to include community impact. By bringing scientific expertise to the region, the project aims to establish a global reference for rose cultivation in Oman. The collaboration with IFF focuses on transparency and quality while returning value to the local community. As Sabrya Meflah observes, the work creates a virtuous cycle within the local economic fabric.
